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Climbing Mt. Baker with Pacific Alpine Guides.

MT. BAKER

[Komo Kulshan]

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Climb the second most glaciated mountain in the Lower 48.

Mt. Baker is the third highest mountain in Washington State and the second most glaciated mountain in the Lower 48. Whether you are are an inspiring mountaineer looking for the perfect introductory experience (a much better first climb than Mt. Rainier), or an experienced climber looking to push your skills to the next level, Baker offers adventures for everyone.

We offer guided summit ascents of Mt. Baker (10,781') via the Coleman-Deming route, Easton Glacier, and Squak Glacier, May–September. Our max climber to guide ratio is 3:1 (note: some NW guide services run Mt. Baker trips at 5:1 or even 6:1 – respectfully, we think this is insane).

MT BAKER TOPO MAP

Click on the stars for key locations.

Zoom out to see trailhead and camp locations.

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Mt. Baker Routes We Guide

We offer 3-day Mt. Baker ascents via a variety of routes on the north and south sides of the mountain. For summit climbs, we typically choose our route based on current conditions – the major factors being:

 

  • Glacier coverage: Crevasses can open up that block the route or increase the difficulty of the climb.

  • Road conditions: Washouts are not uncommon on the Forest Service approach roads and are often a determining factor in our route choice.

COLEMAN-DEMING

Offers a generally straightforward glacier climbing experience that makes for a great introductory route.

EASTON GLACIER

Similar in its moderate nature to the Coleman-Deming, but on the south side of the mountain.

SQUAK GLACIER

An excellent early season route – popular for late spring/early summer ski descents.

NORTH RIDGE

A classic steep snow and ice route for more experienced climbers. See Mt. Baker North Ridge page for more details.

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Itinerary

DAY 1 — HIKE IN

Meet our group and drive to the trailhead. Hike in 3-5 hours and establish camp. Afternoon/evening skills review. Prepare for our climb the following day.

DAY 2 — SUMMIT DAY

Alpine start. In good conditions, the climb usually takes 5-7 hours to the summit. We move for 60-90 minutes at a time, taking 10-15 minute breaks between each stretch. Summit photos, and descend back to camp before the sun gets too warm. Total round trip time is usually 8-10 hours camp to camp.

DAY 3 — DESCEND

Pack up camp, descend to trailhead.

Depending on the weather forecast, we may opt to climb on Day 3 instead of Day 2.

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requirements

  • Excellent physical fitness is required for this trip.

  • You should be able to hike/climb for 1-2 hours at a stretch, taking 10 minute breaks, for up to 12 hours.

  • You should be able to ascend 3000′ in a day carrying 50+lbs on your back, and 5000′ in a day carrying 30 lbs on your back.

  • Physical conditioning should not be underestimated – mountaineering is a strenuous activity.

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DETAILS

WHERE TO MEET

Varies depending on which route we choose prior to the trip:

Coleman-Deming:

Glacier Public Service Center

Glacier, WA

Easton Glacier, Squak Glacier:

Park and Forest Information Center

Sedro Woolley, WA

PRE-TRIP INFO

Information on gear, food, packing, travel and accommodations can be found here: Preparing For Your Climb

Equipment List: Mt. Baker Gear List PDF

Mt. Baker Weather Forecast

COST INCLUDES

  • Guiding and instruction

  • Group equipment: tents, ropes, stove, fuel, etc.

  • Backcountry permit costs

NOT INCLUDED

  • Personal equipment and food

  • Parking permit (NW Forest Pass)

  • Transportation

CLIMB  MT. BAKER

SCHEDULED DATES

June 23-25, 2023

July 22-24, 2023

2024 DATES

June 21-23, 2024

July 19-21, 2024

COST

$975

CUSTOM DATES

Custom climbs are available for private groups and individuals. Please contact us for more info and availability.

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