Mt. Shuksan
North Cascades National Park

One of the Northwest's most iconic peaks.

Mt. Shuksan (9127') is one of the most photographed peaks in the North Cascades, with over 3000' of relief above treeline, complete with cascading icefall glaciers, and steep rock faces. Despite its intimidating appearance, this mountain has a couple of fairly moderate routes including the Sulphide Glacier.

SULPHIDE GLACIER

Excellent introduction to alpine climbing in the North Cascades. The route ascends the Sulphide Glacier to the base of the summit pyramid, where depending on conditions we ascend the Southeast Ridge or the central gully. The summit pyramid is the highlight of this trip, involving 600′ of multipitch climbing on easy alpine rock (or steep snow in early season).

​

FISHER CHIMNEYS

For more experienced climbers, the Fisher Chimneys route on Mt. Shuksan is a North Cascades classic involving an interesting mix of alpine terrain: climbing on rock, steep snow and potentially ice, and glacier travel to the base of the summit pyramid. This is a strenuous route that requires climbing technical terrain carrying an overnight pack.

 Climbing the summit pyramid on Mt. Shuksan. 

DETAILS

ITINERARY

We generally recommend at least 3 days for these trips.

DAY 1 — Approach, setup camp, skills review

DAY 2 — Summit day, return to camp

DAY 3 — Pack up camp, descend to trailhead

​

RATIO

2:1 max

​

SEASON

May-September

​

WHERE TO MEET

Varies — see Pre-Trip Info

​

PRE-TRIP INFO

• Gear List PDF

• Preparing For Your Climb

REQUIREMENTS

• Excellent physical fitness is required for this trip.

• You should be able to hike/climb for 1-2 hours at a stretch, taking 10 minute breaks, for up to 12 hours.

• You should be able to ascend 3000′ in a day carrying 50+lbs on your back, and 5000′ in a day carrying 30 lbs on your back.

• Physical conditioning should not be underestimated – mountaineering is a strenuous activity.

• Fisher Chimneys: Previous climbing/mountaineering experience is required. Experience on rock, steep snow/ice, and/or multi-pitch climbs is beneficial.

COST INCLUDES

• Guiding and instruction

• Group equipment: tents, ropes, stove, fuel, etc.

• Backcountry permit costs

​

NOT INCLUDED

• Personal equipment and food

• Parking permit (NW Forest Pass)