Mt. Baker North Ridge
Climbing the North Ridge of Mt. Baker.
Climb the North Ridge of Mt. Baker with Pacific Alpine Guides
Considered one of the best snow and ice routes in the US, the North Ridge of Mt. Baker is a must do for climbers seeking a true alpine climbing experience on a big mountain.
The route involves multi-pitch snow and ice climbing up to 70° using two ice tools, with long portions of steep 40-50° snow climbing, and complex glacier travel. Combined with a generally long summit day, this Grade III route offers an excellent challenge for climbers looking to take their mountaineering experience to the next level.
Previous mountaineering experience is essential for the North Ridge, and previous ice climbing experience is recommended. It’s possible that on day 1 we’ll have the opportunity to practice some ice climbing technique in a nearby crevasse, but this is dependent on time of year and glacier conditions.
Mt. Baker’s North Ridge is sometimes compared to Mt Rainier’s Liberty Ridge, scaled down a bit, safer, more accessible, and “in” condition for a longer season.
We generally recommend 3 days for these trips, although additional days can be added for more training and weather flexibility.
DAY 1 — Approach, setup camp, skills review
DAY 2 — Summit day, return to our camp
DAY 3 — Pack up camp, descend to trailhead
WHERE TO MEET
Information on gear, food, packing, travel and accommodations can be found here: Preparing For Your Climb
Previous climbing/mountaineering experience is required. Experience on ice and/or multi-pitch climbs is beneficial.
Excellent physical fitness is required for this trip.
You should be able to hike/climb for 1.5-2 hours at a stretch, taking 10-15 minute breaks, for up to 12 hours.
You should be able to ascend 3000′ in a day carrying 50+lbs on your back, and 5000′ in a day carrying 30 lbs on your back.
Physical conditioning should not be underestimated – mountaineering is a strenuous activity.
Guiding and instruction
Group equipment: tents, ropes, stove, fuel, etc.
Backcountry permit costs
Personal equipment and food
Parking permit (NW Forest Pass)
MT. BAKER: NORTH RIDGE TOPO MAP
Click on the stars for key locations.
Zoom out to see trailhead and camp locations.