Climbers on the North Ridge of Mt. Baker.

MT BAKER: NORTH RIDGE

North Cascades, WA | 3 days | June-Sept

Climbing the North Ridge of Mt. Baker.

Climb the North Ridge of Mt. Baker with Pacific Alpine Guides

Considered one of the best snow and ice routes in the US, the North Ridge of Mt. Baker is a must do for climbers seeking a true alpine climbing experience on a big mountain.

The route involves multi-pitch snow and ice climbing up to 70° using two ice tools, with long portions of steep 40-50° snow climbing, and complex glacier travel. Combined with a generally long summit day, this Grade III route offers an excellent challenge for climbers looking to take their mountaineering experience to the next level.

Previous mountaineering experience is essential for the North Ridge, and previous ice climbing experience is recommended. It’s possible that on day 1 we’ll have the opportunity to practice some ice climbing technique in a nearby crevasse, but this is dependent on time of year and glacier conditions.

Mt. Baker’s North Ridge is sometimes compared to Mt Rainier’s Liberty Ridge, scaled down a bit, safer, more accessible, and “in” condition for a longer season.

DETAILS | the logistics

ITINERARY

We generally recommend 3 days for these trips, although additional days can be added for more training and weather flexibility.

DAY 1 — Approach, setup camp, skills review

DAY 2 — Summit day, return to our camp

DAY 3 — Pack up camp, descend to trailhead

RATIOS

2:1 max

SEASON

May-September

WHERE TO MEET

Glacier Public Service Center

Glacier, WA

PRE-TRIP INFO

Information on gear, food, packing, travel and accommodations can be found here: Preparing For Your Climb

Equipment: Mt. Baker North Ridge Gear List PDF

Mt. Baker Weather Forecast

REQUIREMENTS

Previous climbing/mountaineering experience is required. Experience on ice and/or multi-pitch climbs is beneficial.
Excellent physical fitness is required for this trip.
You should be able to hike/climb for 1.5-2 hours at a stretch, taking 10-15 minute breaks, for up to 12 hours.
You should be able to ascend 3000′ in a day carrying 50+lbs on your back, and 5000′ in a day carrying 30 lbs on your back.
Physical conditioning should not be underestimated – mountaineering is a strenuous activity.